Restaurant dishes

ES DINING SPECIAL: The restaurant dishes of 2022 in London



With thousands of restaurants in the capital within easy reach, it can often be hard to decipher what’s worth spending your hard-earned cash. But never fear, because we went to town with a food photographer Rebecca Dickson to show you what’s what.

STARTER: Potato rosti, sour cream and Exmoor caviar at Caravel

Potato rösti, sour cream and Exmoor caviar at Caravel

/ Rebecca Dickson

Reviewers would call it a couch, but we call it (and the three others we took out of sight) the most heavenly entryway. Perfectly proportioned to work up an appetite on the floating restaurant, the chef Lorcan SpiteriThe ode to the holy trinity – potato, sour cream and Exmoor caviar – is, frankly, a gift from the gods. The rösti is crispy on the outside and ever so moist in the center, while the silky, tangy sour cream and luxuriously salty, mineral caviar help it glide down a treat. Beverage expert and co-patron Late Spiteri says that it is better to accompany it with a citrus verdejo wine, to which we say: aye, aye, captain.

£6.50 each; 172 Shepherdess Walk, London N1;

Arroz de Marisco in Lisbon

/ Rebecca Dickson

This year, Nuno Mendes, otherwise known as Portugal’s culinary wizard, has graced Charlotte Street with his ode to the country’s coastal capital. On the menu are many brilliantly executed surprises, but for us the real star is this very traditional and gloriously spicier rice, lightly spiced, sprinkled with large, glistening prawns – the heads of which are served, ideal for sipping, on the side. Depending on the day, you will also find soft and tender knives. Go, go!

£49 for two to share; 30 Charlotte St, London W1T;

Penny licks at the Benham & Froud Jelladrome

/ Rebecca Dickson

Believe it or not, the puds on this page are illegal. Well, what they are served are. In the 19th century, ice cream was served by street vendors on a lick glass, from which passers-by drank before returning the glass. Due to the spread of cholera, they were soon banned, but now, with the advent of (expect) the dishwasher, the dessert design agency Bompas & Parr slyly brought them back to his first spot at Tottenham Court Road Arcade food hall. Our favorite flavors? The ultra-fruity strawberry with candied lemon zest, the vegan passion fruit sorbet meringue with vanilla and the vanilla cardamom with a slice of fresh strawberry. Oh, and dark chocolate with sprinkles, duh.

£3 each; 03-105 New Oxford St, London WC1;;

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